tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86227699248603497492024-03-13T12:18:13.405-07:00GR20 et Tour de Corse en kayak gonflableEnchaînement du GR20 Sud-Nord et du Tour de Corse en kayak gonflable Gumotex en 6 semaines.De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-64971967294217762472015-10-27T04:45:00.001-07:002015-10-27T04:46:02.101-07:00Sommaire<h3>
<b>Les liens pour s'y retrouver dans ce blog où les articles ne sont pas dans l'ordre chronologique:</b></h3>
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<li><h3>
<b> Introduction:</b> </h3>
<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/800-km-kul-mules_4.html">800 km kul-mulés</a> </b></li>
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<b> GR 20:</b></h3>
<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/de-bavella-vizzavona-gr-20.html">Bavella - Vizzavona</a></b></li>
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<b> </b><b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/de-vizzavona-calenzana-gr20.html">Vizzavona - Calenzana</a></b><br />
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<b> Tour de Corse en kayak:</b></h3>
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/22-juillet-saint-florent-plage-de-lava.html">Saint Florent - Calvi</a></b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/de-solenzara-bonifaccio-en-kayak.html">Solenzara - Bonifaccio</a></b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/bonifaccio-ajaccio-en-kayak.html">Bonifaccio - Ajaccio</a></b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/ajaccio-sagone-en-kayak_25.html">Ajaccio - Sagone</a></b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/sagone-scandola-calvi.html">Sagone - Calvi</a> </b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/solenzara-saint-florent-en-kayak.html">Solenzara - Bastia</a> </b><br />
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<b> <a href="http://gr20ettourdecorseenkayak.blogspot.fr/2015/10/bastia-cap-corse-saint-florent-en-kayak.html">Bastia - Cap Corse - Saint Florent</a> </b><br />
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<b><br /></b>De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-78676065090209378302015-10-27T04:23:00.001-07:002015-10-27T04:23:28.355-07:00Bastia - Cap Corse - Saint Florent en kayak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><b>20 août : Biguglia - Santa Severa (36 km - 6 h 45)</b></u></div>
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Devant bastia, notre kayak tourne obstinément vers la gauche. Pourtant il n'y a pas de vent. A coup d'arcs de cercle, nous progressons en ne ramant qu'à gauche. Arrivés à Bastai, Cathy consent enfin à ce que je plonge vérifier la dérive. C'était bien elle qui était sortie de sa fixation...Du coup, je l'enlève et nous avançons sans aileron vers Erbalunga sur un kayak très "sensible". Il suffit que je fixe un point du regard pour qu'il tourne vers celui-ci, étonnant non? Après le pique-nique sur la plage d'Erbalunga et la remise en place de l'aileron de fortune, nous poursuivons notre chemin de façon plus rectiligne... Nous avons beau scruter la côte, pas un seul coin de bivouac: la route longe le littoral au plus prêt et la moindre crique est entourée de maisons. Nous optons donc pour le camping de Santa Severa, à 100 m de la plage. Très sympa avec des douches vraiment chaudes! L'épisode de l'agression sur la plage de Tamarone d'une famille de randonneurs à vélo avec des engins incendiaires nous rend également un peu méfiants pour le secteur ;-) Le soir, pizzéria "A Cantina", très bien! Anecdote: On relève beaucoup d'inscriptions "FLNC" dans le village...<br />
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Bastia</div>
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Erbalunga</div>
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De jolies marinas (villages de pêcheurs) sur cette côte.</div>
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Cathy s'étire... Le portage jusqu'au camping a été un peu fastidieux...</div>
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Du coup, le lendemain, on repart par la rivière qui borde celui-ci. (conseil avisé de la réceptionniste)<br />
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Dernière les canards, l'île d'Elbe.</div>
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Le pont sous lequel on passe depuis la plage pour accéder au camping en kayak.</div>
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Santa Severa</div>
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Des vignes de Cap Corse (vin rare, quelques dizaines d'hectares seulement).</div>
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<b><u>21 août: Santa Severa - Centuri (33 km - 5 h30)</u></b></div>
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Nous filons vers Macinaggio pour les courses de nos 3 derniers jours (petit supermarché). Nous continuons vers le Cap, pique-niquons auprès de la magnifique demi-tour de Santa Maria, rongée par l'érosion. Nous nous réjouissons de terminer notre virée par ce bout de corse extraordinairement beau et sauvage. L'ambiance est différente: villages de pêcheurs rappelant la Bretagne, falaises de roches sombres; on se dit qu'on a beaucoup de chance de parcourir ces rivages sur une mer calme. Quand le vent et la houle se lèvent, on doit avoir moins le loisir d'admirer le paysage!!</div>
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Nous faisons le tour de l'île de Giraglia , à 1 mille de la côte et passons au large de Barcaggio et Tollare. L'ambiance est très austère et passée la plage de galets de l'Arinella, nous ne trouvons pas de criques avant Centuri. Quelques centaines de mètres avant le port, nous trouvons une crique encombrée de bois flottés. Nous y aménageons une banquette horizontale en posidonies à 50 cm de l'eau. <b><u></u></b></div>
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Catamaran en bois.</div>
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Ile de Giraglia</div>
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Encore un repaire de balbuzard! (avec piste de décollage métallique!)</div>
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Banquette en bois massif et posidonies... </div>
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Mobilier "chiné" sur la plage ;-)</div>
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<u><b>22 août: Centuri - Nonza (26 km - 5 h)</b></u></div>
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Le vent est assez fort aujourd'hui (Est/Sud-Est f 4). Nous longeons les falaises pour nous abriter. Relief côtier impressionnant, la route côtière doit l'être également! e port de centuri est un vrai port de pêcheurs, magnifique. Nous croisons ensuite plusieurs villages fortifiés (plusieurs tours éparses) puis nous arrêtons à la sublime Marine de Scalo (Pino). Nous constatons la perte définitive de notre aileron... on fera donc "sans", en dosant méticuleusement les coups de pagaies et en gardant la tête droite ;-) . Pique-nique à la Marine de Giottani, passage de la pointe de Canelle à Canari. Des noms bien amusants mais la vision des anciennes carrières d'amiante fait froid dans le dos! Nous visons l'immense plage de Nonza pour y passer la nuit, au pied du village. Nous apprendrons par la suite que les précipitations lessivent la carrière et amènent régulièrement sur cette plage des sédiments peu recommandables ( 1 dé à coudre d'amiante par kilo de sable). Vers minuit, des plongeurs noctambules passent auprès de nous pour aller pêcher à la lampe.</div>
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<u><b> </b></u></div>
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Centuri</div>
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Noter le pavillon qui met dans l'ambiance!</div>
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Marine de Scalo</div>
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Encore un nid de balbuzard...</div>
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En arrière plan les anciennes carrières d'amiante de Canari.</div>
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L'immense plage de Nonza.</div>
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Les graviers magnifiques de Nonza.</div>
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<u><b>23 août: Nonza - Saint Florent ( 14 km - 2 h)</b></u></div>
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Saint Florent, la boucle (ou plutôt le noeud ;-) est bouclée!</div>
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On nettoie et on remballe tout!<br />
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Les sacs prêts pour le retour.</div>
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On attend ensuite le bus de Bastia (10 € par personne), puis train jusqu'au camping des Sables rouges (arrêt de l'Arinella). Le lendemain, on reprend le train pour Ajaccio, comme ça on aura utilisé toutes les lignes ferroviaires de Corse et une bonne partie des bus côtiers!<br />
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On a adoré Bastia!</div>
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<br />De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-45416890557803496822015-10-26T02:51:00.000-07:002015-10-26T02:51:41.944-07:00Solenzara - Bastia en kayak<div style="text-align: center;">
<u><b>16 août: Saint Florent - Plage de Cadarelli (7 km-1 h 15)</b></u></div>
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Pour l'instant, nous en sommes à 419 km en 19 jours de navigation, soit une moyenne de 22 km par jour. Les prévisions de Météo Consult refroidissent notre espoir de finir le Tour dans les temps: Vent fort et mer agitée dans les jours à venir! Étant donné la physionomie du Cap corse, ça ne va pas être évident :-( A part ça, on a oublié la dérive a du tomber dans la soute du bus, il va falloir diriger un kayak savonnette...<br />
Le 15 août, traditionnellement, il y a les feux d'artifice et les orages. On n'y échappe pas. Première tentative pour aller se ballader à Saint Florent à pied et retour précipité sous des trombes d'eau. Des campeurs ayant opté pour des cuvettes inondables pour planter leur tente finissent d'essorer leurs sacs de couchage dans les sanitaires. Quant à nous, posés sur les racines d'un arbre et atant tout emballé en sacs étanches, tout est nickel. Le tapis de sol en tyvek a même permis de fermer efficacement une des entrées du tarp Décathlon. Dans la journée, les nuages se dissipent et on oublie les trombes du matin.<br />
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On part quand même le 16 août ... dès que l'on quitte la zone protégée par les Agriates, nous nous prenons une houle et un vent violent qui nous incitent à interrompre notre tentative. Nous atterrissons sur la plage de Cadarelli, derrière laquelle se trouve le camping "U Sole Marinu". Le doute commence à s'installer: on continue le kayak ou on arrête et on fait de la rando à pied jusqu'au 23?<br />
On s'installe au camping (très sympa, au guide du Routard) et je me creuse pour trouver une solution pour la dérive. La solution vient des poubelles du camping: un morceau de salon de jardin en plastique va peut-être faire l'affaire! Avec un briquet et un Opinel je façonne une sorte d'aileron . Il faudra juste faire attention lors des mises à l'eau et des approches de plage car le plastique est un peu fragile... On part se promener sur le très beau sentier côtier créé par la commune de Patrimonio. Au retour, vers 17h, le vent et les vagues se sont bien calmés, on aurait pu avancer un peu...<br />
Les prévisions météo pour le lendemain ne sont pas vraiment engageantes: force 7, rafales f 10, vagues de 2 m... Pour les 2 jours suivants, pas vraiment d'amélioration . Après réflexion, on décide un dernier coup de poker-transports en commun: on prend un taxi pour Bastia, puis re-bus pour Solenzara. La côte Est va peut-être nous permettre d'avancer à l'abri en attendant une amélioration au Cap Corse, réputé pour ses mers fortes. Il faudra que l'on fasse une moyenne de 30 km par jour pour terminer en 6 jours, c'est faisable!<br />
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plage de Cadarelli</div>
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<u><b>17 août: Solenzara - Estuaire du Travu</b><b> (6 km)</b></u></div>
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Nous
retrouvons donc le bus à Bastia, non sans nous être renseignés sur un
éventuel vendeur de kayak dans la ville, mais apparemment il n'y en a
pas en Corse?! On va donc poursuivre avec notre aileron de fortune...
Solenzara, même plage, mais dans l'autre sens. Nous avançons de 6 km le
soir avec un gros force 4 de face ... A la nuit tombée, nous nous posons
pour le bivouac au bord de l'estuaire du Travu. Comme tous les
estuaires de la côte Est, un cordon de sable ferme la rivière et on peut
confondre celle-ci avec un étang.<br />
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Bastia, place Saint Nicolas.</div>
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Solenzara, l'éternel retour...</div>
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Des arbres charriés par le Travu.</div>
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Dernier méandre du Travu avant l'eau salée.</div>
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<u><b>18 août: Travu - Alistro ( 45 km - 8h30)</b></u></div>
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Après une bonne nuit fraîche à la belle étoile (je dors avec doudoune + quilt) , nous nous réveillons en retard (6 h 30), pour un départ à 7 h 40. Nous allons naviguer toute la journée sur une mer lisse comme un lac . On appréhendait cette partie de la Corse mais finalement on l'aime bien. Long ruban de sable ininterrompu et désert, pas d'habitations, réserves naturelles, montagnes en arrière plan . Auprès de l'embouchure du Tavignano, nous découvrons une plage couverte de bois flotté (pas que des brindilles mais des troncs également). Cela donne une idée des crues alors que pour l'instant l'embouchure ne se distingue pas de la mer puisque barrée par un cordon de sable! qui forme une réserve d'eau douce naturelle. Le lieu semble fréquenté par des émules de Robinson puisque des cabanes en bois blanchi ponctuent l'étendue de sable. Nous poursuivons jusqu'à la plage de Fiorentino à Alistro en passant près de l'étang de Diane dont les moules sont vendues dans tous les restaus corses. Nous confondons un moment le phare d'Alistro en retrait de la côte avec un clocher à bulbe d'inspiration bavaroise. Non, nous n'effectuons pas une promenade en barque sur le lac de Constance! ;-)</div>
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Embouchure du Tavignano.</div>
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Mytiliculteur</div>
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Alistro</div>
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Plage de Fiorentino</div>
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<u><b>19 août : Alistro - Étang de Biguglia ( 37 km - 7h)</b></u></div>
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Nous filons sur une mer d'huile... La côte a plus de relief et est également plus urbanisée. Au large, les silhouettes de l'île de Monte Cristo et de l'île d'Elbe apparaissent (60 km pour Elbe). Nous voyons pour la 6ème fois des dauphins! Je les filme de loin (100 m - peu probant). On les entend souffler, émouvant! Nous dépassons l'embouchure du Golo dont nous avons apprécié les vasques près de sa source! A Marana, nous effectuons des courses dans un Proxy et bivouaquons sur la plage qui ferme l'étang de Biguglia. Il nous reste 4 jours pour terminer le tour de Corse (façon "puzzle"), ça devrait le faire!!</div>
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<u><b> </b></u></div>
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Plage de Biguglia</div>
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Lys de mer</div>
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Lisse de mer</div>
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Miss, de l'air?</div>
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<u><b> </b></u>Colle: Lever ou coucher? ;-)</div>
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<br />De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-7973220795421449842015-10-25T10:45:00.001-07:002015-10-25T10:46:12.544-07:00Saint Florent - Calvi en kayak<b>22 juillet: Saint Florent - Plage de Lava (Désert des Agriates) (4h / 17km)</b><br />
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Après
avoir fait le plein d'eau (3 packs de 6 x 1.5 litres et 4 vaches de 10
litres), nous partons de Saint Florent vers le Désert des Agriates. De
nombreuses navettes de bateaux desservent les plages renommées de ce
lieu protégé.<br />
Nous sommes 5 à naviguer: Cathy et moi, Denis;
Joséphine, Apolline et Mélissa. Les trois filles restent avec nous 10
jours et Louis nous rejoindra à Calvi pour une semaine.<br />
Notre flottille est constituée de kayaks
Gumotex Hélios doubles et d'un kayak Seawave Gumotex muni de son
pontage double. Lui seul fera le tour complet de l'île. Notre projet
initial n'est d'ailleurs pas le tour de la Corse, mais de rallier
Porto-Vecchio par la côte Ouest...<br />
Le désert est magnifique, mais
ses plages les plus célèbres (Loto et Saleccia) sont prises d'assaut par
les yachts. Nous ne les voyons que de loin. Par contre, nous sommes
surpris par des dauphins qui sautent à 5 m des kayaks! Ça motive bien
tout le monde. On pousse jusqu'à la belle plage de la Punta Negra où
l'accueil est assuré par des bovins! Apolline y souffle le soir son
gâteau d'anniversaire pour ses 18 ans.<br />
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<b>23 juillet: Plage de Lava (Désert des Agriates) - Baie de Giunchetu (Ile Rousse) (7h / 31km)</b><br />
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Nous
partons vers 10h pour une dernière balade le long de cette belle côte
sauvage. Malgré un vent plutôt défavorable, mais peu soutenu, tout le
monde avance pour se rapprocher de l'Ile Rousse. Pour le pique-nique,
nous nous arrêtons sur la plage de Losari, après 4 h de navigation et
déjà de la fatigue chez certaines... Nous faisons une longue pause sous
un tarp improvisé (couverture de survie + pagaies) et nous repartons
vers 16 h 40 pour trouver un coin de bivouac avant l'Ile Rousse. Comme
c'est assez urbanisé, on se retrouve au-delà de l'Ile Rousse non sans
avoir connu un peu de stress avec le ferry de la SNCM sur le départ ;-)
De l'autre côté des rochers roux qui annoncent la ville, deux belles
plages nous attendent, mais meublées de restaus de plage. Je cherche un
coin calme plus loin et trouve finalement un minuscule carré de sable
défendu par des rochers. Par rapport aux belles plages entrevues, ce
n'est pas Copacabana, mais c'est plus tranquille!<br />
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<b>24 juillet: Baie de Giunchetu (Ile Rousse) - Calvi (4h / 18 km)</b><br />
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Sur
cette portion de côte, un peu trop urbanisée, nous naviguons au large. A
la Punta Caldanu, nous admirons de beaux rochers de granite modelés par
l'érosion avec en arrière-plan les montagnes couvertes de nuages noirs.
La Baie de Calvi semble un grand lac... La citadelle est très belle vue
de la mer. Nous nous arrêtons au camping Dolce Vita, tenu par des
Italiens et essentiellement fréquenté par des touristes transalpins.
L'intérêt de ce camping est qu'on y accède directement depuis la mer par
une petite rivière. Pas de portage! A l'embouchure se trouve le camp de
la Légion Étrangère. Le soir, nous prenons le train pour Calvi (15 min/
2€).<br />
Retour par la plage à pied.<br />
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De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-42403913283923609992015-10-25T10:44:00.000-07:002015-10-25T10:44:12.029-07:00De Solenzara à Bonifaccio en kayak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<u><b>27</b><b> juillet: Solenzara - Plage d'Ovu Santu (24 km - 4 h 30)</b></u></div>
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Le 25 juillet, nous sommes rejoints par Louis mais sommes bloqués par les conditions (force 6 à 8, mer forte). Le lendemain, le temps étant le même et les prévisions étant aussi mauvaises pour la semaine à venir, nous décidons un transfert en train et bus vers Solenzara sur la côte Est où la mer est navigable et moins ventée. De Solenzara, nous avons 6 jours pour rejoindre tranquillement Bonifaccio en fonction des dates de retour en avion des enfants. La côte à Solenzara rappelle la côte varoise (maquis, collines, moins de villas quand même! ;-).</div>
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<u><b></b></u>Arrivés à la hauteur de Bavella, nous retrouvons le vent d'ouest brutalement. Nous terminons la journée en rasant la côte pour nous abriter. Nous atteignons la plage d'Ovu Santu malgré le vent annoncé à 6/7 par Météo France. A côté de la jolie tour de Fautea un incendie vient d'être éteint par des Canadairs. Le temps annoncé par la météo jusqu'à jeudi inclus est plutôt venteux (rafales à 60 km/h et jusqu'à 90 à Bonifaccio!)</div>
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Trois kayaks bi-places et le matériel pour 6 pagayeurs en sacs...</div>
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Solenzara</div>
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Au fond, les aiguilles de Bavella.</div>
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Fer à repasser à vapeur?</div>
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Magnifique plage d'Ovu Santu.</div>
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Nos voisins d'en face...</div>
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Qui va là?</div>
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<u><b>28 juillet: Plage d'Ovu Santu - Pointe Capicciola </b></u></div>
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Après une bonne nuit sur cette plage ****, nous partons trop tard (comme nous allons nous en rendre compte en fin de matinée): 9 h 45... Vent arrière favorable pour commencer jusqu'à l'île de Pinarellu où on s'attarde, puis nous sommes cueillis par un vent violent à la sortie du golfe. On s'arrache jusqu'à une plage-banquette de posidonies ( 1m de haut!). On y pique-nique et on repart la fleur au fusil pour parvenir à parcourir 1 km en 1 h!. Bloqués, cloués sur place par un vent violent, nous retournons bivouaquer à posidonies beach, tous convaincus cette fois de se lever très tôt!<u><b> </b></u></div>
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Ile de Pinarellu</div>
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<u><b>29 juillet: Pointe de Capicciola - Punta di Chiappa ( 19 km - 5 h)</b></u></div>
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Nous partons à 6h30 au lever du soleil. Première heure "cool"... Ca se gâte peu avant le Feu de Saint Cyprien (33 km/h + rafales>). Il faut lutter pour avancer . On se parque dans une crique "privée" . On change les équipages pour mettre un "gros" moteur dans chaque kayak puis on repart vaillamment pour atteindre une plage publique et éventuellement aller faire les courses en stop à Porto Vecchio au fond du golfe. Une accalmie nous permet de traverser le golfe. Nous sommes désormais un peu protégés pour quelques km par la côte. A la Punta di l'Arena, nous faisons une courte pause avant d'être éconduits par un kite surfeur propriétaire d'une cabane cachée dans le maquis: "Propriété privée! Avec tous les vols qu'il y a et les bateaux qui brûlent, les affaires maritimes sont sur le coup!!" On ne s'attarde pas et poursuivons avec un vent un peu moins soutenu jusqu'à Porto Vecchio. Courses en ville et on repart avec cette fois vent arrière violent. Le trafic des bateaux crée des remous qui inquiètent certaines...</div>
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<u><b></b></u>Nous nous arrêtons bivouaquer à proximité de la Punta di Chiappa.</div>
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Feu de St Cyprien</div>
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Porto Vecchio</div>
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Kayak en Méditerranée= addiction salée!</div>
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<u><b>30 juillet: Punta di Chiappa - Punta di Rondinara (24 km - 4 h 30)</b></u></div>
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Nous partons à 10 h avec un vent portant le plus souvent. Nous découvrons Palombaggia, belle plage de sable blanc blindée et ceinturée de béton. Un surveillant de baignade nous recommande de mettre nos gilets et de ne pas nous éloigner de la côte... Nous continuons le voyage et arrivons à la plage de Porto Novo au moment où le vent s'inverse et forcit. Le pique-nique et un peu d'attente permettent aux éléments de se calmer et nous continuons jusqu'à Rondinara (plage circulaire au top 5 des plus belles plages corses comme en attestent les nombreux yachts amarrés). Nous allons bivouaquer à la pointe du même nom, loin des baigneurs.<u><b> </b></u></div>
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<u><b>31 juillet: Rondinara - Bonifaccio (23 km - 7 h)</b></u></div>
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Nous traversons le Golfe de Sant Amanza jusqu'à la Punta di Capicciolu (4 km) . La côte est constituée de beaux rochers rouges, très sauvage, déserte. A Cala Longa, nous pique-niquons sur une belle plage bordée d'affreux cubes de béton . Quel dommage! A l'île de Piana, nous effectuons un arrêt-vent fort. Le lagon turquoise entre la côte et l'île grouille de planches à voile, kayaks de location, jets skis et zodiacs. Une heure plus tard nous repartons, le vent ayant un peu molli. Le bras de fer reprend à la pointe de Sperone (encore bien bétonnée autour du golfe). La mer s'agite de plus en plus! Au Capu Pertusato, le paysage devient grandiose: belles falaises de calcaire, au loin Bonifaccio perchée au-dessus des flots... La houle importante crispe un peu les kayakistes et les bateaux d'excursion tiennent peu compte de notre présence: ça secoue bien!! Nous longeons les falaises sous les maisons suspendues; Quel spectacle extraordinaire! Plus loin, une immense grotte absorbe les bateaux de visiteurs. La mer se calme dans le "fjord" au fond duquel se trouve le port de Bonifaccio. Nous accostons à côté d'un des plus grands yachts. L'un des marins échappe sa lavette et nous la lui rendons. Il peine à nous croire lorsque nous lui racontons notre façon de voyager... Le grand écart avec ses patrons! Nous transférons le matériel jusqu'au camping à 500m. Le soir et le lendemain matin on se ballade dans la ville. La citadelle perchée nous permettant de réveiller des muscles inutilisés ;-) Les enfants prennent le bus pour Ajaccio en fin d'après-midi et quant à nous deux, nous poursuivrons jusqu'à Ajaccio avec deux kayaks afin d'y récupérer Isabelle.</div>
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Nid de balbuzard</div>
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Capo di Pertusato</div>
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Le gros bateau derrière "Utopia" des îles Caïman est un charter que l'on peut louer pour seulement <b><i>435 000 €</i></b> par semaine (12 passagers maximum) : <a href="http://www.edmiston.com/yacht-charter/utopia-82/">Utopia</a> </div>
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(Nous c'est <u><b>gratos</b></u>, mais faut ramer!)</div>
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<br />De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-565826056348454382015-10-25T08:27:00.002-07:002015-10-25T08:27:13.253-07:00Bonifaccio - Ajaccio en kayak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>2 août: Bonifaccio - Punta di Ventilegne (15 km _ 4h30)</b></div>
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Transfert
de nos deux kayaks depuis le camping jusqu'au port (200 m seulement,
mais ça tire!. Nous sortons du Port et peu de temps après, nous
découvrons la grotte de Sdragonato, une grotte extraordinaire, grande
comme une église et éclairée par de grandes failles dans le plafond.
Jusqu'au Capo di Feno, la mer et le vent sont calmes. Nous rencontrons
pour la troisième fois des dauphins, on tente de les filmer... Derrière,
changement d'ambiance, avec un vent violent. Cathy souffre du dos lors
de la traversée du Golfe de Ventilegne car il faut lutter contre le vent
de travers qui déroute le kayak et ce n'est pas facile à faire en étant
assis à l'arrière du kayak bi-place!</div>
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Nous nous arrêtons dans une jolie crique de la Punta di Ventilegne.</div>
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<b>3 août: Pointe de Ventilegne - Roccapina (5h30 - 14 km)</b></div>
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Mer d'huile jusqu'à 11h. Puis Force 4 de face.<b> </b>Aux
îles Bruzzi, nous voyons encore un nid de balbuzard mais avec un petit
qui piaille à l'intérieur. Beaux rochers sculptés par l'érosion. 2km
après la tour d'Olmetto, nous nous arrêtons sur une magnifique plage
déserte. Un Corse âgé guide une dame étrangère vers le bout de la plage
et lui montre quelque chose dans la dune. Après vérification, il s'agit
d'une source. Il veut sans doute lui vendre le cabanon aménagé à l'autre
bout de la plage...</div>
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nous
repartons de cette plage avec un fort vent contraire. Nous rasons la
côte au milieu de rochers-sculptures et allons jusqu'à la Point de
Roccapina. Là, la houle est plus forte et Cathy, épuisée, préfère faire
demi-tour que d'affronter une zone agitée. Nous revenons donc bivouaquer
dans une petite crique 1 km en arrière.<b> </b>Cette crique est équipée d'un fauteuil à deux places en granite!<b><br /></b></div>
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Nid de Balbuzard avec un petit dedans!</div>
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<b><br />4 août: Cala di Roccapina - Crique proche de Campomorto (33 km - 8h30)</b><br />
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Plein
de bonnes résolutions et face à un vent thermique quasi-automatique en
fin de matinée, nous décampons à 5h50. Le soleil n'est pas encore levé,
la mer est lisse jusqu'à 9 h. Puis le vent se lève et ça devient plus
physique...On fait une pause au Cap di Cenetosa. Après la mer devient
houleuse avec un vent F4 de face. Ça va devenir une habitude! On se
traîne jusqu'à Campomoro où on fait les courses et on pique-nique. Puis
on trouve une micro-crique dans les rochers avec comme seule possibilité
les hamacs.<b> </b><br />
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A cœur vaillant rien d'impossible;-)<br />
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Capo di Cenetosa</div>
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Et un autre nid de balbuzard!<br />
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<b>5 août: Campomoro - Cala di U Muru (20 km - 5h)</b><br />
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A
l'aube, nous effectuons notre plus grande traversée du voyage: nous
coupons le Golfe de Valinco (8 km). Mer sans une ride, pas de vent, pas
de bateau. Magique! Nous coupons ensuite la baie de Capabia (7 km). Puis
nous nous arrêtons au Capu di Muru sur une très belle plage accessible
par un sentie...<br />
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<b>6 août Capu di Muru - Ile de Piana (golfe d'Ajaccio)</b><br />
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Petite
étape car nous ne devons pas arriver trop vite à Ajaccio (Isabelle
n'arrive que le 9 au matin). Nous croisons 3 kayakistes qui démarrent
leur tour de Corse. Ils nous mitraillent de questions (où dormez-vous?
explication de ce qu'est une vache pour transporter l'eau...). Nous
faisons le tour du beau Capu di Muru et arrivons à Portigliolo pour le
pique-nique. Nous faisons quelques achats à l'épicerie provisoire sur le
parking de la plage. Nous apercevons encore un groupe de dauphins!<br />
Nous
nous arrêtons un peu plus loin, sur l'île de Piana, seul endroit
"isolé" du coin. Nous trouvons une crique invisible et passons pas mal
de temps à tendre les hamacs avec des longueurs de corde
invraisemblables à cause de l'écartement des rochers. Nous souhaitons
dormir hors-sol par crainte des rats (fréquents sur ce type d'île).
J'essaie également de suspendre la nourriture au bout d'un tronc. En
fin de compte nous n'avons pas eu de visite pendant la nuit... Le
coucher de soleil est splendide...<br />
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<b>7 août: Ile de Piana - Ajaccio (20 km)</b><br />
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Nous
coupons les baies jusqu'à la Thalasso de Poticcio. Nous attendons 12h30
pour traversée la baie d'Ajaccio (5 km) . Tout le monde est à table,
personne ne navigue, ça fait moins de risque d'être renversé par un
bateau à moteur ;-) Par contre le vent n'est pas au repos et on rame dur
pour avancer!<br />
Nous poursuivons jusqu'à Barbicaja où il y a un
camping pas trop loin de l'eau (500 m de montée raide quand même :( Nous
croisons encore des dauphins et rencontrons un couple de Nordistes qui
ont un gros kayak mou acheté chez Décathlon. Nous parlons avec eux un
long moment puisque notre expérience les intéresse. Le soir au camping,
nous allons manger une pizza. Nous interrompons le match de foot du
serveur qui ne peut nous donner le menu puisqu'il est derrière la télé.
Nous nous glissons pour apercevoir l'affiche... Ce camping n'est pas
cher mais délabré. Il est interdit de recharger son portable aux prises
de courant puisqu'on peut le faire pour 30c à la réception!<b> </b>(interdit évidemment contourné par les campeurs)<b>.</b><br />
Le
lendemain, visite d'Ajaccio en bus et stop. Cette ville a un noyau
historique sympathique, entouré de constructions modernes sans âme.<b> </b><br />
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La statue de la liberté...<br />
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Le noyau historique...<br />
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Le cimetière marin, cerné par les immeubles ...De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-46530067743030309542015-10-25T08:26:00.002-07:002015-10-25T08:26:15.305-07:00Ajaccio - Sagone en kayak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>9 août: Ajaccio- Plage de l'Hôtel La Parata (10 km)</b></div>
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Isabelle
nous rejoint en bus au camping, nous aide à descendre le matériel et
les provisions. Pas de vent au départ puis vent de face force 3 puis 4.
Normal, nous partons à 12h15... Arrivés à la Tour de Parata, très
péniblement , nous nous trouvons face à une zone très agitée entre la
tour de Parata et les îles Sangunaires. Du coup, demi-tour, observation
de la côte au-delà, très délicat surtout avec une débutante et un vent
qui souffle à Force 6 . Là se pose le problème du bivouac, puisque toute
la pointe est un Grand Site hyper réglementé. Nous devons donc revenir
en arrière et dormons sur la plage de Parata. Première expérience de
bivouac pour Isabelle!</div>
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<b>10 août: Parata-Lava (16 km_ 4 h)</b><br />
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Là nous partons à l'aube, à 6 h. En espérant que les Sanguinaires nous
laissent passer... Pas trop de vent, mais la mer reste agitée (grosse
houle de 1.7 m) après les sanguinaires.On avance pendant 4 h en luttant
un peu dans les vagues (surtout Cathy qui est seule dans l'Hélios!) .
Nous passons le Capo di Feno et suivons la côte (très belle) jusqu'à une
petite plage à 2 km de Lava. Nous sommes tranquilles puisqu'elle
quasiment inaccessible depuis la terre. Une source coule même au pied de
beaux rochers rouges. Idéale pour rafraîchir le rosé! L'après-midi
s'écoule à l'abri de la chaleur. Ca se couvre en soirée et on monte
l'abri vers 17 h. Quand on a fini de le monter il ne pleut plus!! On a
bien fait de s'arrêter là, le vent soufflant à force 5 (Nord Ouest).<br />
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Les îles Sanguinaires</div>
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Passage devant la Tour de Parata, c'est là que ça se complique...</div>
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Cathy où t'es?</div>
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Capo di Feno</div>
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Ce caillou est le résultat d'une incroyable érosion!</div>
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<b>11 août: Lava - Sagone (4 h 30 - 20 km)</b><br />
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Lever à 5 h. Nous coupons les baies de Lava, Liscia et on arrive à la
plage de Santana (réputée dangereuse). Nous poursuivons jusqu'à Sagone
où nous cherchons une crique pour bivouaquer. Par chance, Isabelle qui
a une bonne intuition découvre une magnifique petite plage inaccessible
mais pourtant proche de la ville.<br />
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Le Seawave sans son pontage (opération rinçage)</div>
<br />De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-53006698963385160642015-10-25T08:22:00.001-07:002015-10-25T08:23:22.887-07:00Sagone - Scandola - Calvi en kayak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><u>12 août: Sagone -Piana (37 km - 7h)</u></b></div>
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Nous déposons Isabelle à Sagone de bonne heure le matin pour qu'elle puisse prendre un bus vers Ajaccio, munie de son kayak dans un sac à dos. Nous repartons tous les deux, Cathy et moi, dans le Seawave pour tenter de terminer le Tour de Corse si la météo et le temps restant avant de reprendre l'avion nous le permet. Pour l'instant c'est bien parti puisque la mer est plate et le vent absent. Nous rejoignons Cargèse en 1h40 (10km). Le kayak étant chargé à bloc: 5 jours de nourriture, 19 litres d'eau, matériel de bivouac... A deux dans le Seawave, on avance plutôt bien!</div>
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Nous coupons toutes les baies après Cargèse, passons 3 belles pointes et gardons le cap sur le Capu Rossu . Le vent se lève vers 11h 30 (force 4 de face). Nous forçons un peu et rejoignons une crique à la pointe de cet Uluru des mers. Pique-nique puis contournement du cap et surprise: C'est grandiose!</div>
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Des arches naturelles, grottes rouge orangé. Par contre c'est noir de hors-bords blancs! Le vent nous propulse vers une crique de gros galets au débouché d'un torrent peu après la plage de Ficaghiola (Piana). </div>
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<u><b> 13 août: Piana - Argentella (40 km - 8h)</b></u></div>
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Nous partons à 8h. J'aurais préféré plus tôt pour éviter la foule à Scandola mais bon, ... Vu les prévisions météo pour après-demain et les jours suivants, nous devons rallier Calvi dans les deux jours (côte à falaises sans abri). Nous traversons vers Scandola, coupant le golfe de Porto et Girolata.<br />
Nous ne serons pas seuls sur Mars, puisque le lieu est envahi d'une multitude d'engins flottants... C'est très beau malgré tout et le kayak nous permet d'aller dans les coins les plus étroits. Une merveille de la nature! Après le pique_nique Cala Scandola, nous coupons toutes les baies pour avancer rapidement vers Calvi. Après quelques tergiversations et aller-retours pendant 1 h sans trouver de lieu de bivouac correct au Capu di a Mursetta, nous allons vers la plage de Crovani (Argentella). Nous nous arrêtons sur de belles dalles de granite pour bivouaquer (vive les matelas gonflables!).<br />
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abri de berger</div>
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Quelques larmes séchées...</div>
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Un voyage qui ne manque pas de sel!</div>
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<u><b>14 août: Argentella - Calvi ( 22 km - 3h45)</b></u></div>
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Nous partons à 7 h 30 pour éviter le vent fort et les risques d'orage de l'après-midi. On suit de belles falaises beiges sans trop d'abris possibles jusqu'au Capo Cavallo. Ensuite, on coupe les baies jusqu'au phare de la Revellata (on rate la grotte des veaux marins) . Nous croisons un couple en Gumotex Solar et taillons une bavette avec eux (bavette caoutchouteuse évidemment). Après cet échange sympathique nous poursuivons vers Calvi et sa magnifique citadelle. Nous reprenons le bus pour Saint Florent puisque nous avons déjà parcouru les Agriates(même chauffeur, vieux titi parisien qui nous raconte une deuxième fois les histoires des bus Santini qui ont été rachetés par Mariani ...). Halte au camping U Pezzo (bis) le soir.</div>
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<br />De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-57025843108052553172015-10-04T09:58:00.000-07:002015-10-27T05:21:01.580-07:00800 km kul-mulés ;-)<span id="goog_375395951"></span><span id="goog_375395952"></span>Notre projet à tous les deux (Cathy et Denis) était de parcourir le
GR20 dans le sens Sud-Nord puis de redescendre de Saint Florent par la
côte Ouest jusqu'à Porto-Vecchio en kayak gonflable, de façon à faire
une boucle montagne et mer corse. En fin de compte, nous avons pu
achever le tour complet de la Corse en kayak et avons parcouru le GR 20
sauf la première étape, soit 639 km de kayak et 162 km à pied, presque
800km tous ronds...en 6 semaines.<br />
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<b>kul: kayak ultra-léger </b>(nous
utilisons des kayaks gonflables Gumotex biplaces de 16 à 20 kg,
transportables dans des sacs à dos de 100 litres, avec des pagaies
Décathlon, lègères démontables en 4 parties (1.1 kg pièce). Le matériel
est stocké dans des sacs étanches et des bidons.Pour deux personnes,
l'équipement complet passe dans un sac de 100 litres. On a donc
simplement deux gros sacs à dos à déplacer en transports en commun, avec
à la main 1 bidon chacun et un sac étanche contenant nos vêtements dans
l'autre main. Le poids des sacs étant équivalent à ce que certains
portent sur le GR 20...<br />
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<i>Matériel de kayak pour deux personnes</i></div>
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<i> Kayak Seawave rempli et prêt à naviguer.</i></div>
<b>mul: marcheur ultra-léger </b>(on trouve plein d'astuces sur le site Randonner léger pour arriver à un poids de sac très raisonnable)<br />
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<i>Nos sacs en mesh (Toutanmesh) + sac étanche</i><br />
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De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-45610075564416452982015-10-01T15:10:00.002-07:002015-11-11T03:23:18.924-08:00De Bavella à Vizzavona (GR 20)<b>Jeudi 9 juillet</b><br />
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Nous débarquons de Figari vers Porto Vecchio, pour y passer la nuit au camping et récupérer nos bâtons et piquets expédiés en Colissimo.Cruelle déception à la Poste: le colis n'est pas arrivé... On se précipite à l'Intersport pour y acheter des bâtons premier prix et des piquets en acier.<br />
Première bière Pietra (à la châtaigne) devant la piscine à débordement du camping . Noter le trompe-l'oeil qui restitue la vue d'avant l'immeuble;-)<br />
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<b><br /></b><b>Vendredi 10 juillet</b><br />
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Nous nous levons à 5 h 15 pour prendre le bus de Bavella à 7h. Nous avons décidé de laisser l'étape Conca-Bavella de côté pour être sûrs d'arriver à Saint Florent avant le21 juillet, car nous y avons rendez-vous avec les filles et les kayaks fraîchement débarqués de Bastia en avion.<br />
Notre GR démarre donc vers 8h40 par la variante alpine de Bavella, non sans avoir reçu une nouvelle fois les recommandations de prudence de notre chauffeur de bus.Ca commence plutôt bien, puisqu'il y a peu de monde et c'est très beau, les aiguilles apparaissant de façon théâtrale au milieu de rideaux de brume.Cathy stresse un peu sur un passage chaîné et on s'égare un peu vers un faux-col. On rejoint le "vrai" GR et on remonte la vallée vers le refuge d'Asinau. Nous découvrons les refuges-campings bien sympathiques (7€) par personne, avec douche, gaz et même ustensiles de cuisine. La plupart des randonneurs viennent du Nord, certains sont même devenus amis en chemin. Nous sommes effarés par le chargement de nos collègues marcheurs: ils annoncent des poids de sac jusqu'à 25 kg!! Avec nos 3.7 kg sur le dos + 3 kg de nourriture et 1 litre d'eau, on passe pour des randonneurs à la journée.<br />
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<b><br /></b><b><br /></b><b><br /></b><b>Samedi 11 juillet (2 étapes: Asinau-Usciolu_ 8 h de marche)</b><br />
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Nous prenons la bonne habitude de nous lever à 6 h pour partir vers 7 h 15. Nous sommes les derniers à quitter le campement. Nous partons vers le Mont Incudine afin d'emprunter l'ancien GR moins fréquenté et très agréable, quoique déjà un peu envahi par la végétation. Nous parcourons un plateau couvert de genêts épineux envahissant des prairies abandonnées. Il fait bien chaud et le vent est apprécié. On boit beaucoup. Peu avant la montée vers la crête menant au refuge d'Usciolu, une source fraîche nous requinque. Le GR devient sportif, il faut mettre les mains régulièrement pour passer d'un versant à l'autre de la crête. Le refuge d'Usciolu est bien approvisionné, on y achète deux Pietras (of corse;-), deux tomates à 1 € pièce et 2 oranges au même prix.<br />
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<b>Dimanche 12 juillet (Usciolu-Bocca Verde_ 7 h de marche)</b><br />
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Le sentier vers le refuge de Prati parcourt une longue crête avec de nombreux passages dans des blocs où il faut se servir de ses mains. Ereintant, ça casse les jambes... Pique-nique au refuge de Prati puis on continue vers Bocca Verde par un sentier en hétraie. On croise une vague de randonneurs pendant une heure puis plus rien à part un cochonglier qui mange du crotin de cheval.<br />
A Bocca Verde, petite auberge sur un col en pleine forêt, 8 € le bivouac dans un camping avec gaz, douches. On accroche la nourriture à un arbre, il paraît que les cochons peuvent venir se servir...<br />
Apparemment, le restau est bien coté, cuisine au feu de bois. Nous assistons à une séance d'émondage au ras des tentes, sans aucun périmètre de sécurité, étonnant! A table, nous discutons avec deux jeunes équipés légèrement et des adeptes de bivouac sauvage clandestino mais chut!...<br />
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Au loin, la mer...</div>
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Bon appétit!</div>
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<b>Lundi 13 juillet:</b> <b>(2 étapes) Bocca di Verde-Vizzavona _ 7h50 de marche</b></div>
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Nous terminons notre doublage d'étape sur un terrain très "roulant" par rapport aux jours précédents, pas de crêtes mais de belles forêts de pins laricio, de hêtres, souvent en balcon. toujours peu de monde, on apprécie! Nous passons à Capanelle qui est en fait une mini-station de ski! au bout de 3 h50 puis après 4 h, nous rejoignons Vizzavona. Nous bivouaquons à côté de la gare (7 €50, épicerie pas trop chère). Nous dînons au restaurant "Au chef de gare", excellent rapport qualité-prix!<b><br /></b></div>
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Pin laricio multi-centenaire</div>
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De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8622769924860349749.post-10576859067373513282015-10-01T15:09:00.001-07:002015-10-04T09:52:37.977-07:00De Vizzavona à Calenzana (GR20)<b>Mardi 14 juillet: Vizzavona - Refuge de l'Onda (5 h 15 de marche)</b><br />
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Nous partons par une belle vallée où s'écoule un torrent remplissant une multitude de vasques naturelles.Au sortir de la forêt, nous grimpons un cirque granitique avec des petits blocs, des dalles, jusqu'au col de Muletto (2064 m). On double pas mal de gens partis 1 h avant nous mais hélas trop chargés! Au refuge de l'Onda nous nous installons dans un enclos qui nous protège du bétail puis allons profiter d'une vasque proche.</div>
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<b>Mercredi 15 juillet: De l'Onda au refuge de Manganu (2 étapes _ 10h)</b></div>
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Nous partons par la variante de la crête, plus rapide et esthétique que la vallée. Panoramique et parfois vertigineuse... Pique-nique à Petra Piana et on repart vers 12h pour 6 h de crêtes et d'éboulis sous un ciel menaçant. Sans doute la partie la plus alpine que nous ayons rencontré jusque-là. Somptueux! Nous arrivons à Manganu, refuge-camping bondé où coule une source au goutte à goutte. Lors du repas, nous discutons avec un père et son fils qui font un bout de GR et qui ont bien étudié leur allègement (en plus des voisins guidélois). nous assistons également à une dispute entre deux partenaires de rando sur la difficulté du GR par rapport au Mercantour. Après s'être insultés, ils repartent le lendemain séparément...</div>
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<b>Jeudi 16 juillet: De Manganu à un bivouac sauvage au bord du Golo (7 h de marche)</b></div>
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Nous découvrons les magnifiques pozzines proches du Lac de Ninu. Par la suite, longue randonnée en forêt jusqu'au col de Verghio (sodas, glaces pour compléter notre pain chèvre hyper-sec). Toujours sous les frondaisons de pins laricios énormes, nous passons près des bergeries de Radule, proches de belles chutes d'eau et de vasques. Nous apercevons les gens égrenés dans les vasques et nous surveillons les lieux de bivouac possible. Nous trouverons notre bonheur plus haut, vers 1600 m , avant le refuge, au bord d'une magnifique piscine naturelle où les cascadelles sont ornées de coussinets de fleurs jaunes. Un véritable éden! Après quelques longueurs dans une eau cristalline, nous déployons nos quilts et dormons sans abri, à la belle étoile.</div>
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<b>Vendredi 17 juillet: de Ciottulu di i Mori au refuge de Tighjettu (4 h 30 de marche)</b></div>
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Nous grimpons au refuge de Ciottulu di i Mori en admirant au passage une belle vue sur la côte occidentale (Scandola sans doute). Puis nous descendons un versant rocailleux en grès, porphyre. Ceux du Nord en bavent, c'est raide! On croise un randonneur avec des chaussures recouvertes d'élasto (ses semelles se sont décollées dès le premier jour, des chaussures qu'on lui a prêté!...). Un peu plus loin, un autre randonneur avance avec une tente 2 sec sur le dos! Étonnant... Passé ce lieu de souffrance pour ceux qui montent, s'ensuit une balade horizontale dans les pins. Arrivés à la bergerie de Ballone, nous nous installons dans une vasque très fraîche pour une bonne baignade avant de monter au refuge Tighjettu. Accueil très sympathique par le gardien qui est là quasiment depuis la création du GR . Il nous confirme l'intérêt de la nouvelle étape du Cinto que nous avons l'intention d'emprunter.Des randonneurs venant du Nord nous mettent en garde: "Vous allez souffrir!" Certains d'entre eux ont des sacs de 25 kg!!! Nous passons le reste de l'après-midi au bord d' une vasque au-dessous du refuge pour nous préparer psychologiquement à l'épreuve du lendemain ;-)</div>
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<b>Samedi 18 juillet: Refuge de Tighjettu au refuge d'Asco (par le Monte Cinto) (5h 30 de marche + 1h30 a-r au sommet du Monte Cinto)</b></div>
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Nous partons à 6 h 20 et faisons l'ascension du col de la Crucetta en 1 h 30 (+ 800m) . Ensuite, nous enchaînons le col des éboulis (2602 m). Belle ambiance ... d'éboulis de haute montagne. On aime beaucoup!</div>
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Cathy m'attend à l'antécime (2650 m) du Monte Cinto et je pars seul vers le point culminant de l'île.Il faut quand même 45 min pour y parvenir (pour 50 m de dénivelée positive...!). La descente s'avère bien longue, avec beaucoup de petits éboulis qu'il faudrait descendre en courant pour bien faire. Quelques passages assez raides équipés de chaînes plus loin, nous arrivons à Asco vers 15 h. Nous sommes étonnés de voir les prix pratiqués par l'hôtel qui tient une épicerie à des tarifs plus élevés que les refuges isolés en montagne (1.5 € la Pom'pote!).On entend encore parler des punaises de lit qui infectent le refuge de Carozzu et qui sont véhiculées par les randonneurs qui en viennent. Désinfection obligatoire pour les nouveaux arrivants!</div>
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Vive le bivouac!!</div>
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<b>Dimanche 19 juillet: du Refuge d'Ascu Stagnu au Refuge de Carozzu (4 h 30 de marche)</b></div>
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Par une raide montée avec de petits pas d'escalade, nous arrivons au Bocca di Stagnu (2010 m). Nous sommes un peu plus lourds que la veille, puisque nous sommes chargés de rapporter son portefeuille à un randonneur qui l'a oublié à Tighjettu. Nous prenons rendez-vous à Calvi avec lui (sinon il ne peut pas prendre l'avion du retour). Nous croisons une vague de nordistes (bronzés à l'avant des jambes, alors que nous privilégions les mollets grâce au soleil qui nous tourne le dos), puis plus personne dans la descente. Celle-ci doit être bien glissante par temps humide, puisque beaucoup de dalles sont équipées de chaînes. Sous la célèbre passerelle de Spasimata, nous profitons longuement de la vasque olympique. Génial!</div>
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Le refuge de Carozzu est un peu plus loin. Sa terrasse est magnifique, nous y dégustons une Piétra en observant des mouflons qui paissent juste en-dessous. Une troupe de Jeannettes a une mission: ramasser les papiers autour du refuge! Au coup de sifflet, avec beaucoup de zèle, elles écument les environs avant de rassembler leurs trouvailles dans un sac confié au gardien. </div>
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<b>Lundi 20 juillet: Du Refuge de Carozzu au Refuge d'Obiu (3 h 30 pour Denis, 5 h pour Cathy)</b></div>
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Après une nuit écourtée par le cliquetis des piquets, fermetures éclair et autres bruissements de sacs plastiques de randonneurs prêts dès 4 h du matin, nous partons vers 7 h pour une ascension rapide de la Bocca Innominata (1850 m). Après une nouvelle ascension d'un petit col vers 2000m, nous suivons une belle sente le long d'une crête fermant un cirque volcanique. Nous croisons très peu de gens, avec une vague de randonneurs à peu près 2 h après notre départ, puis plus rien. On manque de s'égarer dans la descente (le GR est plutôt marqué pour ceux qui montent). Au refuge, pas grand chose à vendre. On reprend un taboulé (pas bon) et une tablette de chocolat. A la douche un randonneur nous confie qu'il aurait peut-être dû commencer par le Tour du Mont-Blanc comme première rando. Comme bal (ade) des débutants, le GR 20 ça "déchire grave" ;-)</div>
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<b>Mardi 21 juillet: du Refuge d'Obiu à Calenzana (4 h de marche)</b></div>
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Descente sympathique avec juste un petit passage de désescalade assistée par chaîne, juste ce qu'il faut pour faire regretter les joies du GR20. Au cours de la descente sur sentier poussiéreux, sans caillou avec vue sur le golfe de Calvi, nous croisons beaucoup de randonneurs qui débutent. On s'arrête souvent, interpellés par eux. Trop tard pour leur conseiller de s'alléger, hélas... Ce problème du surpoids explique sans doute une bonne partie des abandons sur la 1ère ou 2ème étape. Nous descendons de Calenzana en stop, restituons le portefeuille au jeune à Calvi, et prenons le bus (20€) pour Saint Florent après avoir fait des courses pour les kayaks qui nous attendent au camping U Pezzo à Saint Florent. Restau le soir à Saint Florent avec Joséphine, Apolline et Mélissa (U Citadellu, menu corse à 13€, très bien) puis nuit à la belle étoile au camping (fini l'abri!).</div>
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De Nihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12369524255014668476noreply@blogger.com0